This could have been the shortest restaurant review in the magazine’s 13-year history.

If we weren’t constrained by a word count, it would read, ‘Tropea is perfect. Do yourself a favour and go.’ We do have a word count, so prepare for some gushing.

Firstly, the place is effortlessly cool while simultaneously feeling cosy – no mean feat. The focus is on being a great local restaurant. The vibe is chilled, the staff are brilliant and the food is utterly superb. Small plates are where it’s at and the restaurant recommends six to seven between two. We happily did as we were told while tucking into a carafe of Italian white.

FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD

Among multiple contenders, the food is the star of the show. Focaccia with sundried tomato and rosemary was perfection – think crunchy salty crust with a light soft middle. Arancino stuffed with butternut squash, sage and oozing provolone cheese was ridiculously good. Burrata served at the ideal temperature achieved peak creaminess and was elevated further with a grilled red pepper sauce, basil oil, hazelnuts and a sprinkling of sea salt. Gnocchi with gorgonzola, confit sweet red onion and walnut silenced us – that’s all you need to know.

MELT-IN-THE-MOUTH

Tagliatelle with shredded duck white wine ragu served with a hefty handful of parmesan prompted child-like cooing and a Tuscan ribollita – cavolo nero and white bean stew with chunky croutons – was dreamy. Melt-in-the-mouth pork cheek braised in sofrito and orange with a potato rosti and savoy cabbage cooked in wine completed the savoury line-up beautifully. Dessert was a toss-up between tiramisu, canoli and pannacotta. Tiramisu with two spoons won – a fittingly delicious end to a top-notch lunch.