This month wine expert David Carne joins the celebrations of the British love affair with white wines

In Britain, we have a love affair with white wine. Three of the most popular choices have their very own celebration days in May – Sauvignon Blanc (2 May), Pinot Grigio (17 May) and Chardonnay (22 May) – giving the perfect excuse to make this month a celebration of white wines!

As we flirt with the idea of warmer summer temperatures, retire our winter coats for another year, and see the spring buds begin to flourish into summer flowers, we may also be thinking about transitioning to a lighter style of wine more in keeping with the early summer. So, many of us will be considering filling our shopping baskets with some refreshing white wines.

Sauvignon Blanc is by far the nation’s favourite white wine. This is a highly aromatic and acidic grape which oozes fresh, zingy, tongue-tingling flavours. Depending on how ripe the grapes are, we can expect flavours from citrus, green apple, grapefruit and the British speciality gooseberry, through stone-fruits and even tropical fruits such as pineapple and passionfruit. Many examples have aroma and taste qualities which are floral – elderflower or white blossom, but also slightly herbaceous notes such as grass, asparagus, and green bell pepper which are a result of the Methoxypyrazines contained in this variety. It is also not unusual for feline lovers to detect the familiar aroma of ‘cat pee’ in the wine, which comes from a sulphur bound compound known as 4MMP.

FLINTY QUALITY

As a rule, most Sauvignon Blanc wines are for immediate consumption, especially those from places like Marlborough in New Zealand and South Africa. However, a notable exception to this rule are Sancerre wines, which are more complex, have a minerally or flinty quality and which can age well. Generally, these wines are made in stainless steel tanks or old oak barrels and so have little to no characteristics of having been oak aged. It is, however, possible to find oaked Sauvignons, from places such as Bordeaux, the USA and Australia. Sancerre is a very marked contrast with New Zealand, so if you are not a big Marlborough fan, you might want to try a Sancerre instead. On the other hand, if you can’t get enough of that New Zealand Sauv, then just maybe you should look out for a Spanish Albariño as an alternative.

If the high acids in Sauvignon Blanc are too much for your constitution, you may well want to consider Pinot Grigio as an alternative. This Italian tipple is less aromatic and therefore tends to get more flavour from the winemaking process, than from the grape itself. Pinot Grigio is usually light, refreshing and dry in style, with characteristics of green or citrus fruits, and sometimes peach, some minerality and depending on where it was made and almond notes. All of this makes it the ideal patio wine: easy drinking, delicious and uncomplicated. Like Sauvignon Blancs, most Pinot Grigios are going to be produced for immediate consumption rather than ageing.

SUMMER MEALS

Pinot Grigio is a great wine for get togethers but also particularly pairs well with white meat, sea food dishes, as well as salads, making it the ideal wine to serve with light summer meals. It is also possible to make a more sophisticated style of wine from this grape, which is usually labelled Pinot Gris and even sweet wines made from grapes, which are harvested later. In terms of other varieties, you may want to try if you like this style, you may want to opt for Soave, another native Italian style made from the Garganega grape.

Chardonnay has an extraordinarily bad reputation in the UK, largely based on a lot of very heavily oaked cheap Chardonnays of the 80s and 90s, from places such as the USA and Australia. While there are certainly still a few cheap, overly oaky chardonnays out there, generally winemakers are now making much more subtle wines with these grapes. Many are now unoaked. Like Pinot Grigio Chardonnay, is non-aromatic, so tends to take on the flavours of the wine making process. Flavours can range from citrus and green fruits, through to peachy and even pineapple-like flavours. The grape usually produces much more golden coloured wines. Oaked wines may have toasty, vanilla and nutty notes as well.

SPARKLING FORM

Of course, if you prefer a different take on your chardonnay, you may want to consider consuming it in sparkling form. Chardonnay is one of the most popular grapes used in sparkling wine making and can be found in many Champagnes, English Sparklings, South African Cap Classiques, Crémants, and even in some Cava, Prosecco and Franciacorta. Chardonnay often contributes some floral notes, citrus flavours and enhances aging potential. If you like a little oak in your chardonnay, you may want to also try white Rioja for something similar.

So, with three options to celebrate in May which ones will you choose? As always, whether you celebrate one or all three, please drink responsibly.

DAVID’S TOP WINE PICKS FOR MAY

Something sparkling:

Krone ‘Borealis’ Cuvée Brut 2022/23, South Africa – £15, Majestic.

A nice refreshing and light sparkling from South Africa, which combines delicate fruit flavours of melon, stone fruit and pineapple, with subtle minerality and biscuit flavours on the finish.  

Something fresh and fruity:

M&S Garganega Pinot Grigio – £7, Marks & Spencer.

A good typical example of a Pinot Grigio with white fruit, subtle acids, notes of lime, peach and almonds. A nice easy drinking wine, which is very affordable. 

Something big and bold:

Paolo Leo Primitivo di Manduria, 2022 – £13, Waitrose.

A rich, full bodied and well-balanced wine with black fruit notes of blackcurrant, blackberry and black cherry. Strong oak influences of smoke, spice and earthiness to finish. 

Something classic:

Tesco Finest Pouilly Fume – £16.50, Tesco.

A Sauvignon Blanc with some character and complexity. Flavours of lime, gooseberry, and green apple meet minerality and cream, to create a very enjoyable mouthfeel. 

Something English:

Three Choirs Classic Cuvee Sparkling Wine – £18.69, Hay wines.

A sparkling wine from one of the lesser-known varieties – Seyval Blanc, with a touch of Pinot Noir. Think white and citrus fruits with some nice brioche, bread and biscuit notes. 

Something different:

Honey Drop Chenin Blanc 2023/4 – £14.99, Majestic.

Stone fruit, tropical fruit, and honied notes, give way to creamy layers of smoke, vanilla, and with complex coconut and butterscotch on the finish. This is a wine which seriously delivers and which deserves to be savoured.