Henry Wong, Harborne

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It had been roughly a decade since we visited Henry Wong and we’d forgotten what a treat it was.

Ten years on, the place still had the warm local restaurant vibe we enjoyed first time around and crucially, the food we sampled was universally delicious.

Let’s face it, Harbonites are not short of places to eat with oodles of restaurants on their doorstep, but Henry Wong is one of the OGs – an institution that locals of multiple generations think of fondly. We were invited to sample the menu so obviously we obliged – rat up a drainpipe springs to mind.

The joy of Chinese food is over ordering as is our wont and sharing lots of different dishes. We went classic with a stonking pork Yuk Sung. There’s something special about the cool crunch of lettuce teamed with warm, soft pork that works and this was an excellent version.

Then duck pancakes – we’re nothing if not predictable. We’ve eaten a lot of average duck pancakes in our time and this wasn’t one of them. Attention to detail even down to the slick presentation with edible flowers and carefully shredded moreish duck was spot on. The hoisin sauce was just sweet enough and didn’t tip over into sickly territory which is rarer than it should be.

Sweet and sour chicken was fresh and tangy with plenty of vegetables. Crispy shredded beef was sticky, sweet and spicy – a heady trio, while our favourite dish (i.e. the one we fought over) was king prawn with garlic and chilli. The prawns were tender and seriously tasty with a hefty punch of the hot stuff. Finally, the crisp pork belly was unctuous and melt in the mouth tender – everything it should be.

We were a party of four and this amount of food plus steamed rice, noodles and prawn crackers felt about right – although bear in mind we’re a hungry bunch. The restaurant has changed hands, but we found it just as great in terms of atmosphere, service and food as it was 10 years ago. We probably won’t leave it so long ’til next time.

Tuck Weng Lee

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The executive chef at Henry Wong, Tuck Weng Lee, talks ‘fusion cuisine’, names his choice as the world’s best chef and describes just what it’s like to eat ants’ eggs – and it’s not what you’d expect!

Tell us about your cooking

I would describe my style as ‘fusion cuisine’. This is a cuisine that combines elements of different culinary traditions that originate from different countries, regions or cultures. As a Malaysian, I grew up in a multi-cultural country where the food reflects the multi-ethnic make-up of the population. During my time in Malaysia, I realised that food is a beautiful way to connect people from different cultures and origin. This influenced my decision to become a chef focusing on fusion cuisine.

How did you become a chef?

I was inspired by my mother to become a chef. I loved the innovative way that she cooked when creating new dishes – blending different cuisines, experimenting with new ingredients, spices and techniques to create dishes that are not limited by traditional dishes. Every Malaysian’s home must have its own unique dishes created by the mother which you can’t get anywhere else.

What do you eat at home?

As a Malaysian-born Chinese, I can’t live without rice. Rice with different dishes is my daily diet

Who’s the best chef in the world and why?

Gordon Ramsay. His passion, work ethic and self-confidence has no doubt inspired the world. He is not only a chef, but also a leader, a mentor – many of his protegés have gone on to shine on their own and very brightly.

Is the customer always, right?

No, but no matter if the customer is technically right or wrong, always listen to the customer feedback and concerns and make sure they feel heard. Every complaint is an opportunity to collect valuable feedback.

What was your favourite food as a kid?

All types of snacks. In Malaysia, even the snacks are multi-cultural!

Food heaven and food hell?

My food heaven is anything with seafood. Food hell can be anything prepared by a chef that has lost passion for cooking.

What’s the most unusual thing you’ve eaten?

Ant eggs. They taste a little bit sour and have a creamy and nutty flavour.

Share a cooking tip

The secret technique to roast the crispy pork belly is to apply a layer of white vinegar on the pork skin to enhance its crispiness. The critical part is to ensure the honey roasted pork is thoroughly marinated by repeatedly ‘bathing’ the roast pork using the honey glaze every 15 minutes and returning to the oven.

What do you recommend from this evening’s menu?

Our house roasted crispy pork belly and honey roast pork.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?

I would have loved to play badminton for a living. I still try to play as often as possible. Even though I did not become a badminton coach, my son did!

Ricky Wu

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We chat to the executive chef at Henry Wong, about honing his palate in Hong Kong, being inspired by his foodie family and how he almost became an accountant

Tell me about your cooking

My cooking style is Cantonese so lots of stir frying, steaming and deep frying using the finest ingredients. There’s no excuse for poor quality. I source the best meat, fish and vegetables along with top quality soy sauce.

Describe your perfect meal

My perfect Chinese meal is king prawn and shitaki mushroom yuk sung, followed by soft shell crab with chilli and garlic, sirloin steak with teriyaki sauce, steamed seabass with lemon & bean sauce and stir fried gai lan (Chinese vegetables) with ginger, along with a bowl of spring onion fried rice.

How did you become a chef?

My family’s love of food was an important factor. From the age of five I went to the market in Hong Kong every morning with my grandmother to buy ingredients for lunch. She introduced me to amazing food and flavours. Later I worked as an accountant at my uncle’s restaurant, but I couldn’t stay out of the kitchen. At any opportunity I was with the chefs in the kitchen learning the skill of cooking and honing my palate. I moved to Birmingham in 1982 and worked in my mother’s kitchen for ten years before opening my own restaurant Ricky’s. I’ve been at Henry Wong since 1995.

What do you eat when at home?

A fresh simple supper of steamed fish and vegetables.

Who’s the best chef in the world and why? And who’s the best in Brum?

Nobu Yuki head chef at Nobu is inspirational. It’s impossible to say who is the best in Birmingham.

Is the customer always right?

If a customer takes a delicate steamed fish and mixes it in a bowl with a sweet and sour dish, that is not right.

What’s the best thing about being a chef?

I love creating and developing new dishes. It’s very satisfying.

What’s the worst thing about being a chef?

The kitchen can be a tense place to be. Also, when I eat out and I feel the food isn’t up to scratch it upsets me so much I cannot eat. I leave feeling hungry.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?

I like things to look beautiful, so I’d probably be a photographer.

What do you recommend from this evening’s menu?

Shitake mushroom prawn yuk sung with a nice cold glass of Chablis

RECIPE INGREDIENTS:

  • 8 large king prawns
  • 1 medium egg yolk
  • 20g green and red peppers
  • ½ onion finely chopped
  • 1 medium hot red chilli
  • ½ litre of vegetable cooking oil
  • 1 tbsp chilli oil
  • 1 tsp salt
  • A tbsp cornflour

METHOD:

Remove the shells from the prawns, but keep the tails intact. Remove the veins by cutting the back of the prawns. Slightly open them gently pulling to remove the vein. Clean and dry the prawns. Cut the green and red peppers into small pieces. De-seed the red chilli by cutting away the top and then removing the seeds with a sharp knife. Cut the chilli into small rings. Crack an egg and drain out the egg white. Beat the egg yolk in a bowl . Add the prawns to the beaten yolk ensuring they are completely coated. Add the salt and cornflour to the prawns and mix well. Heat ½ litre of oil in a wok. Test the oil temperature by dropping a small piece of bread into it. When the bread is golden brown the oil is hot enough. Put the prawns in to fry for 1 minute. Remove once they are golden. Remove the oil from the wok and pour into a heat proof jug to cool. Reheat the wok and add 1 tbsp of chilli oil. Add the onion, peppers and red chilli rings and stir fry for 30 seconds. Add the fried prawns and salt to the wok. Toss the prawns a few times to combine the flavours and serve.