Henry Wong, Harborne

It had been roughly a decade since we visited Henry Wong and we’d forgotten what a treat it was.

Ten years on, the place still had the warm local restaurant vibe we enjoyed first time around and crucially, the food we sampled was universally delicious.

Let’s face it, Harbonites are not short of places to eat with oodles of restaurants on their doorstep, but Henry Wong is one of the OGs – an institution that locals of multiple generations think of fondly. We were invited to sample the menu so obviously we obliged – rat up a drainpipe springs to mind.

The joy of Chinese food is over ordering as is our wont and sharing lots of different dishes. We went classic with a stonking pork Yuk Sung. There’s something special about the cool crunch of lettuce teamed with warm, soft pork that works and this was an excellent version.

Then duck pancakes – we’re nothing if not predictable. We’ve eaten a lot of average duck pancakes in our time and this wasn’t one of them. Attention to detail even down to the slick presentation with edible flowers and carefully shredded moreish duck was spot on. The hoisin sauce was just sweet enough and didn’t tip over into sickly territory which is rarer than it should be.

Sweet and sour chicken was fresh and tangy with plenty of vegetables. Crispy shredded beef was sticky, sweet and spicy – a heady trio, while our favourite dish (i.e. the one we fought over) was king prawn with garlic and chilli. The prawns were tender and seriously tasty with a hefty punch of the hot stuff. Finally, the crisp pork belly was unctuous and melt in the mouth tender – everything it should be.

We were a party of four and this amount of food plus steamed rice, noodles and prawn crackers felt about right – although bear in mind we’re a hungry bunch. The restaurant has changed hands, but we found it just as great in terms of atmosphere, service and food as it was 10 years ago. We probably won’t leave it so long ’til next time.

HENRY WONG,283 High Street, Harborne, Birmingham, B17 9QH. Tel: 0121 427 7666 henrywongharborne.co.uk