Riesling is a wine that arguably polarises opinion more than any other. David Carne looks at the reasons why – and how its image is changing – to mark Riesling Day this month

It’s Riesling Day on 13 March! On the same day in 1435, cellar logs recorded the first sales of Riesling by Count Katzenelnbogen near the Rheingau region of Germany.

Riesling is a crowd divider. There are several reasons for this, some fairer to the variety than others. Firstly, many people think that Riesling is a sweet wine. While it is true that it can be made in sweet styles, wines are often dry or just slightly off-dry in style. Secondly, people often associate it with the very poor-quality German wines available in the UK during the 1970s and 1980s – things have improved considerably since then!

The other thing which puts a lot of people off is that Riesling (particularly those which are aged) can have both an aroma of kerosene or petrol which isn’t the most appealing smell and can be quite oily/waxy in texture which many people do not enjoy.

Versatile and high-quality grape

Riesling can, however, make some remarkably complex and age-worthy wines. Just look up Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese on the internet and you’ll find the best bottles can cost in the region of €23,000! In the 19th century, aged Riesling wines were considered some of the best and most complex wines available, earning Riesling the title of ‘King of White Wines’.

Despite the sometimes-intimidating petrol nose and waxy mouthfeel, Rieslings can also have aromas and flavours of lime, green apple, and rhubarb, as well as buttery creamy textures depending on how the wine has been made. Given how aromatic the variety is, it is often possible to detect jasmine on the nose and, at times, ginger on the palate. Some wines display remarkable complexity and can easily age for 10 or more years.

Typically, Riesling wines tend to be a little lower in alcohol and as mentioned above, are made in a variety of sweetness levels from bone dry to very sweet. Riesling is also one of the grapes permitted in the making of ice wines in Germany. These are also well worth trying if you enjoy luscious, sweet wines.

European roots, global appeal

Germany is by far the largest Riesling-growing country, with significant growth in the French Alsace region also. Smaller plantations can be found further south in Austria and Hungary where it is usually referred to as white Riesling or Rajnai Riesling. Outside of Europe, Riesling can often be found in colder regions of the USA and Australia. European versions tend towards greater minerality, while Australian versions are characterised by the presence of lime aromas. Riesling is a variety which can be highly influenced by the terroir in which it is grown.

If you are looking for good Rieslings then the Mosel in Germany, Alsace in France, Clare and Eden valleys in Australia, Finger Lakes in New York State or potentially Washington State or Oregon are good places to start. Riesling is the seventh most widely planted white variety in the world.

Great wine with Asian food and desserts

Riesling’s searing acidity makes it an ideal pairing with mildly spicy Asian food. Off-dry styles can help balance spicy dishes, and it goes well with Pad Thai, Thai curries, and spicy noodles. You can even pair drier versions with fatty foods like fish and chips. But off-dry and sweeter styles also pair well with desserts. Look for Trocken on the label if you want a dry style, Kabinett for off-dry, and Spätlese for something pretty sweet. Really sweet wines are likely to be labelled as Auslese, Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenauslese.

So, is it time you gave Riesling a second chance? If you do, be sure to let us know. And whatever you’re drinking this March, please drink responsibly.

DAVID’S RECOMMENDATIONS FOR MARCH

Something Sparkling:
Elyssia Gran Cuvée Cava – £16.99, Decantalo (www.decantalo.co.uk)
A very approachable Cava. Think citrus and orchard fruits, along with some cream, honey and white flowers. It finishes with a hint of brioche.

Something Fresh and Fruity:
Petaluma Clare Valley Riesling, 2021 – £29, Majestic.
A classic Riesling, showing lime, elderflower, flinty minerals, honey, almond and bright acids on the palate and the classic Riesling beeswax nose.

Something Big and Bold:
2023 Uovo Cabernet/Nebbiolo, Larry Cherubino, Frankland River – £23.95, Dorset Wine company (www.dorsetwine.co.uk)
A nice blend, showcasing dark fruit (blackcurrant), herbs and even a hint of mint on the finish. Well integrated tannins, and a long finish.

Something Classic:
The Society’s Exhibition Pauillac 2022 – £26, The Wine Society.
A Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend with black fruit notes of cassis, dark cherry which are supported by cedar, mocha and licorice notes, with spice and pepper on the long finish.

Something English:
Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve NV – £36, Waitrose.
Aromas of lemon zest, orange, and honeysuckle, with green apple on the palate and beautifully luxurious brioche from the four years aging on its lees.

Something Different:
Parcel Series Pinot Noir, No. 93, Central Otago, New Zealand – £36, Majestic.
A nice expression of the Pinot Noir grape with plum and cherry aromas, with some nice spice from barrel aging. Perfect for a roast dinner.