We’ve been enjoying Maneki under the arches in Worcester for years, so we knew what to expect from its newer JQ sibling, but still, the space blew us away.

Much larger and more finished than the OG, the restaurant felt designed which isn’t a slur against the Worcester shop, the space is entirely different. Natural materials, exposed brick, cavernous ceilings, statement light fittings, padded seating – it’s stylish, fuss free and comfortable.

The restaurant had just moved to everyday opening when we visited – previously it had closed on Monday and Tuesday. It’s a bold move with lots of restaurants doing the opposite. Every weekday between 12 and 4pm it’s possible to order a smaller portion of any of the large plates for £8.50. A steal.

We kicked off with three small plates. Word to the wise, don’t expect refreshing from the smashed cucumber salad – it was packing some serious heat and spice – ginger, garlic, black vinegar, Sichuan chilli and furikake (Japanese seasoning) while the pork Gyoza was an overall more subtle affair – tasty but less in your face. Karaage chicken was high on the crunch scale thanks to its triple frying while the wild garlic and togarashi (Japanese spice mix) mayo topped it off brilliantly.

There’s no way we’d have managed full-size mains after that, so we opted for small. Roast duck Sichuan was the star of the show. While we can’t begin to describe the intricacies of the flavours going on in the bowl, trust us, it’s well worth trying. The roast duck broth alone was incredible so with all the other bits like crispy duck, soft noodles, pickled radish, greens, ajitama egg, shio tare (Japanese seasoning) and roast duck oil – it was a cracker of a dish. There was not a dribble of broth left.

The Maneki Donburi with Karaage chicken was also a joy – essentially a rice bowl (steamed sushi rice) with charred sweetcorn, sesame bean sprouts, pickled ginger and citrus miso sauce. It was a heady mix of sweet, sour and smoke that was pleasing. We’re salivating as we write which is a first.

Bear in mind we visited on a Tuesday lunch, there was a buzz about the place – a feeling. It’s exciting and different. Of course you can eat Japanese food elsewhere in the city, but this is electric, inventive and ambitious and we’re keen to see where it’s heading next.