As December welcomes Cabernet Franc Day, David Carne looks at a wine which growing numbers of drinkers in the UK are discovering. Plus, he picks five wines you may not have thought of for Christmas!
Cabernet Franc is having somewhat of a renaissance, partly due to its resilience to climate change, but it has yet to really flourish in the UK market as a single variety. And yet, as both a single varietal and as part of red wine blends, it contributes to many excellent wines in the market.
Without Cabernet Franc we would also not have famous wines such as Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Cheval Blanc, Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso and Opus One. Moreover, we would not have varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon (a cross with Sauvignon Blanc), Merlot (a cross with Magdeleine Noire des Charentes) and Carménère (a cross with Gros Cabernet). Cabernet Franc Day on 4 December coincides with the death of Cardinal Richelieu in 1642, who is credited with bringing Cabernet Franc cuttings from the Loire Valley to Bordeaux.
So why do Brits not rate Cabernet Franc? The answer probably lies partly in the fact that, despite it being part of the blend in some of the best Bordeaux, Tuscan and Loire wines, it is rarely mentioned on the bottle. We also have a historic predisposition towards Clarets, which tended to be dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In our recent past, we have been driven partly by taste and partly by affordability towards richer, fruitier New World red wines. However, the current drive towards lighter styles of red, particularly among younger drinkers in the UK, means many are now discovering Cabernet Franc for the first time.
These wines are more substantial than Pinot Noir or Beaujolais, but lighter than Primitivo or Merlot. They’re typically less tannic, with red-fruit flavours such as strawberry, raspberry, sour cherry and plum. Some even take on flavours of smoked tomato or sweet red pepper. Cooler climates yield vegetal notes (from methoxypyrazines) and violet aromas (from terpenes), while warmer regions may show darker fruits like blackberry and blackcurrant. Aged examples develop savoury notes – vanilla, coffee, stewed fruit, fig and umami-rich mushroom. Bright acidity means these wines often age gracefully.
Cabernet Franc is widely planted in the Loire Valley where it is often made as a single variety or blended, typically with Cabernet Sauvignon. In Bordeaux, it is primarily a blending grape, adding spice, red fruit, and soft texture to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon; with the finest single-variety examples appear in Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. In Tuscany, Cabernet Franc is blended with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Sangiovese, producing softer tannins, darker fruit, and notes of mocha, cinnamon, leather, and plum. Smaller plantings exist in Hungary, Bulgaria, Croatia, Slovenia, Greece and Spain.
Outside Europe it grows in California, Washington, Virginia, New York and Canada’s Niagara region, where cooler climates yield lighter, fresher wines and warmer areas produce fuller-bodied, spicier styles. It is also found in Argentina, Uruguay, Chile, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and China.
This is a wine that is made for cuisine. Roasted pork or lamb, chicken or turkey dishes (especially lighter styles), meatballs in tomato sauce, BBQ food, Camembert or feta, beetroot-centred dishes and lentil stews all work particularly well.
DAVID’S RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER
Something Fresh and Fruity
Jim Barry, The Agean, 2023 – £17, Majestic.
Stainless steel and oak combine for citrusy, mineral freshness with subtle herbal notes.
Something Sparkling
Bouvet Ladubay Saumur Rosé Brut – £14.50, Majestic.
Cabernet Franc proves it makes a great sparkle—red fruits, creamy texture, and floral lift.
Something English
Nyetimber Cuvée Chérie – £42, Majestic.
A demi-sec with citrus (lemon, tangerine), honeyed notes, and biscuity finish. Great with desserts or Asian spice.
Something Big and Bold
Chronic Cellars Space Doubt Zinfandel – £14.75, Sainsbury’s.
Cherry, strawberry, liquorice, florals, and a warm, gently sweet finish.
Something Classic
Vik ‘A’ Cabernet Franc 2023, Cachapoal Valley – £19, Majestic.
Chilean expression of Cabernet Franc with strawberry, plum, subtle blackberry and blackcurrant and a spicy finish.
Something Different
Moldovan Rara Neagră, 2021 – £7.99, Aldi.
A great wine at this price point from Moldova, with a fruity, herby and spicy palate – great with cheese or meaty dishes.