We’re spoilt for choice with restaurants specialising in meat so we approached Pasture hoping it would offer something a bit different.

The emphasis on provenance, ethical farming and sustainability is all admirable but not unique. However, the Pasture guys have taken it a step further, owning and running their own farm, growing vegetables, fruit and herbs. They’ve also been awarded the highest rating for sustainability in the hospitality sector across all areas of their business which sets them apart.

Officially Pasture is a chain with three sites, but that feels like a mischaracterisation. Nothing about it says chain and our waitress was an excellent example. She was invested in the Pasture story beyond a mere paycheque. She’d clearly sampled the menu, loved her food, advised us brilliantly and got us excited for our next visit, convincing us there’s so much more to try. We were sold.

COO LIKE A BABY

As you’d expect, the choice of cuts of beef is impressive and we lapped up a delicious, perfectly pink sirloin with a generous helping of beef fat bearnaise. However, it was the bits and bobs around the steak that wowed us. For instance, short rib croquettes from the nibbles menu made us coo like babies. A rich, unctuous, intensely beefy middle encased in a crisp crumb was superb served with a punchy gochujang aioli – an inspired recommendation from our waitress. Again, from the nibbles menu, whipped smoked aubergine with shawarma chickpeas, pomegranate and mint had a heady Middle Eastern vibe all scooped up with thin, crisp sourdough crackers.

WE COULD TELL YOU BUT…

Then came a burger which was no ordinary burger. The patty was crafted from 45-day aged beef served in a soft bun with plenty of pickles, bacon jam, crispy shallots, oozing cheese and a secret sauce that made the whole thing sing. It was messy as hell, but we didn’t care. We swapped the fries for beef fat chips but found them a bit meh. A side of fire roasted carrots on the other hand, was unforgettable and that’s no exaggeration. Cooking with fire is a big thing at Pasture and this mound of charred, intensely flavoured veg was utterly fantastic. The carrots were served with crunchy chickpea dukkah, a bright green herby zhoug and a curry aioli. It was an absolute triumph.

While the emphasis is most definitely on beef, there are plenty of inventive dishes for non-meat eaters. We recommend sitting with your back to the massive fridges packed with great hunks of ageing meat which we found a bit off putting. Aside from that, we’re mightily impressed and already planning another trip. Those carrots…