Peter Brown, Malmaison

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The head chef at Malmaison, Peter Brown recounts how he was cooking with mum from the moment he could pick up a spoon – and pays tribute to his first and biggest influence, Gary Rhodes

Tell us about your cooking

I am classically trained and have spent my whole career in Rosette kitchens. May the cholesterol gods forgive me, but I really do believe that butter makes everything better. I also love ‘nose to tail’ cooking, squeezing the best possible flavour out of every ingredient and minimising on waste. I hate waste!

How did you become a chef?

Food has always been important in my family. My great gran was a cook and my mother is a pastry chef so it was pretty much obvious from the word go! Mum always said I was cooking from the moment I could hold a spoon.

What do you eat when at home?

My wife is Taiwanese so I cook a lot of oriental style food at home (under her watchful eye) and my daughter would go through walls for a good bowl of rice!

Who’s the best chef in the world and why? And who’s the best in Brum?

It saddens me to say that my first and biggest influence has recently departed us. Gary Rhodes was, and will remain, a true legend. I followed him religiously at the beginning of my career and have pretty much all of his cookbooks, many of which I still thumb through. I would say the best chef to me right now would be Tom Kerridge, I love how he champions British food as we really do produce some world-class ingredients. There are several amazing restaurants in Birmingham and it would not do for me to try and put one above the others.

Is the customer always right?

I really wish I could say yes, however… while most people are great, even when something isn’t quite to their taste, there seems to be a nucleus that seems to think they know more than the chef! These people do their best to tell you that the way they want it is the way everyone should have it.

Share a cooking tip

Put butter in it! Seriously, taste as you go and try to season a little with each additional ingredient. If you throw a lot of salt and pepper in at the end that is when you have a habit of going overboard. You can always add more but can’t take it away.

What was your favourite food as a kid?

Mums ‘spaghetti jumble’. I have never been able to recreate it but it was essentially Bolognese with cheese beaten into it! Gooey, cheesy heaven!

Food heaven and food hell?

Heaven is Taiwanese Bento box. Taiwan is reputed to grow the world’s best rice… they do! Hell is overly spicy food. I don’t mind a bit of a kick but too much and my taste buds are too busy screaming to allow me to taste anything.

What’s the most unusual thing you’ve eaten?

While working in Australia I tried alligator, mildly fishy chicken I have to say! During our trips to Taiwan there has been more than one occasion I have asked my wife what we are eating only to be told: “I can’t translate, just eat it!”

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?

A nuisance! I really cannot picture myself behind a desk all day long and even after 23 years in the trade I have to say there is very little that excites me more than food.

What do you recommend from this evening’s menu?

The sea bass with gnocchi and a butternut squash and truffle sauce on our festive menu is probably my favourite dish on our menu. The gnocchi is gluten free so great for those with an allergy, and the aroma is a wonder on the senses!

Malmaison, The Mailbox

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There’s so much to celebrate about Birmingham’s food scene and there seems to be an exciting new launch every week, so it’s easy to forget the old gems. Malmaison is one of those that we’d let slip for a while, so we thought we’d address it. A new menu seemed an ideal excuse.

Firstly, in true Malmaison style, the menu design is a winner and had us at first peek. Minimalist, chic and with great food photography, everything appealed. It wasn’t style over substance either. Full of inventive dishes as well as the classics, we were won over big time.

The only problem with top notch food photography is the pressure to make the dish in real life live up to that. We ordered a chicken satay and roasted squash noodle soup to start whose lip-smacking image featured on the menu and website. In reality, it looked like a different dish, however, it tasted unbelievable. Shredded chicken, toasted peanuts, coriander and spring onion served in a tasty broth was warming and moreish. A pot of red chilli paste/sauce served separately was seriously fiery, so we’d advise caution. Less is more. A small amount was enough for us adding a perfect amount of heat. Such a good dish.

A salt beef and confit pork terrine, with mushrooms a la grecque and burnt onion purée looked a treat. The accompaniments were better than the main event which, without the punchy purée would have been a bit bland, but maybe that’s the balance. Miso glazed short rib of beef fell off the bone and just melted served with a zingy carrot and orange purée and radish salad. We ordered triple-cooked fat chips as a side which were superb. The highlight was a crab & scallop risotto. With fresh white crab meat, crab bisque, samphire and pan seared scallops, this was a perfect risotto in our book. Far too big for one, but perfect.

Dessert was winking. A pineapple upside down cake with rum, caramel and coconut sorbet hit the spot nicely, while a sticky poached pear, raspberry and frangipane tart inspired much cooing. As well as the food, the cracking wine list deserves a nod as does the service which was attentive and knowledgeable. It’s also far enough from that market to pretend it’s not happening. We won’t leave it so long next time.

Damian Goom

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Up close and personal with Damian Goom, GM of Malmaison Birmingham

TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF

I’m Damian Goom, senior GM for Malmaison Hotels. I look after the Birmingham, Brighton, Cheltenham, Oxford and Reading hotels. I came to the city as the GM three-and-a half years ago, but I’ve been working in and around Birmingham for about 13 years. I’m an adopted Brummie and love it here. This is the third time I’ve actually lived in Birmingham during my career, and me and my family – including my two gorgeous Brummie daughters – are so settled here now.

HOW DO YOU GET INTO TOWN?

I live in Solihull so my journey into the Mailbox where I am based for most of the week is pretty simple – down the A45 into the city centre via Belgrave Middleway. I work quite unsociable hours because of events and travelling across the UK to other hotels, so it’s easier for me to drive.

IS BRUM A GOOD PLACE TO WORK IN?

Birmingham is a great city – we all know that – but since Brummies have started talking about how great it is, I think the public has really taken notice. The population is young and diverse and you get a sense that young people in particular have really made the place their own! From a professional point of view, I admire the work done by the likes of the Chambers of Commerce and Marketing Birmingham, and people like Andy Street, Paul Faulkner and Paul Kehoe who are tirelessly promoting the city. The city also has some amazing hotels, restaurants and unique bars.

COFFEE BREAK?

Having an abundance of facilities in the hotel and wanting to showcase them to potential customers means it is usually in Chez Mal Bar and Brasserie or our on-site Starbucks. If I go off-site, it would be to one of the independent coffee shops like Faculty Coffee in Piccadilly Arcade or Yorks Espresso Bar, Great Western Arcade.

LUNCHTIME?

Sometimes I pop over and see my old friend Tony Elvin, GM at Hotel du Vin (our sister brand). He does a mean lunch and he’s generally on the wine come midday on a Friday! I also love Amantia on Bennetts Hill. It’s authentically Spanish and reminds me of holidays. I love the passion of the owners – it’s people like this who give Birmingham something to shout about.

POWERWALKING?

I have this weird habit of only using my work mobile outside – not just because of the very dodgy signal in my office – so you’ll often find me having important conversations strolling through the Mailbox and out onto the canal.

WHERE’S YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF THE CITY?

This is like being asked which is my favourite daughter (I don’t have a favourite, before you ask!) If pressed, I love the green spaces in the city; Cannon Hill Park, nearer to me Elmdon Park and a bit further Sutton Park. I also like to go and see live music and comedy – the Hare & Hounds and Glee Club rarely disappoint.

AFTERWORK PINT?

I am an ale drinker, so my two favourites are Pure Bar and the Wellington on Bennetts Hill.

HOW CAN THE CITY BE MADE BETTER?

If I was being picky I would say the car parks at the rail stations need to be bigger to encourage more people to take the train to work. Otherwise, the city is getting it right on so many levels – from large scale events that bring tourism and media interest, through to enhancing our every day experience as residents. Birmingham really is on the up!