We caught up with fashion designer Shonagh Murray after showing her first collection at London Fashion Week for her ethical knitwear brand, Shone
When Shonagh Murray was approached by Fashion Crossover London – an organisation that champions emerging designers – about putting a concept collection together for London Fashion Week, she was thrilled and surprised. Shonagh doesn’t have formal fashion training so didn’t have any expectations and thought the lack of training left her on the back foot – actually, the opposite was true. Shone was selected from the shortlist and the designer says it was a real confidence boost. Industry professionals felt that her lack of training was a benefit rather than a curse allowing Shonagh to be free, unconstraint by rules. She makes mistakes and learns from them and says: “You don’t know what you don’t know.” Shone’s concept collection was playful and nostalgic drawing on nineties references raising a smile.
FIT FOR A QUEEN
In another pinch me moment Shonagh’s unique designs also caught the eye of The Vivienne of Ru Paul’s Drag Race fame. The queen approached Shonagh about creating a gown for runway knitwear week on the All Stars version of the hit show. Shonagh says: “I’m a big fan of Drag Race and I was watching the show when I received the message from The Vivienne. It was my first experience doing editorial work. It was high fashion, and I loved it. It was a privilege.” To have The Vivienne in her house for fittings was bit surreal. Although Shonagh didn’t keep track of the number of hours she spent creating the show stopping gown, it took six weeks with multiple hours per day, so it was a significant commitment. The Vivienne went on to win the episode so it was all worth it.
PLANT BASED
Shonagh’s route into fashion has been unconventional. She began knitting in 2017 when she was hospitalised for a period of time. She says: “I needed something creative to keep me going. I began knitting. It was therapeutic and calming.” The yarn kept getting chunkier and Shonagh kept practising until she found her unique crochet lace effect. As a vegan and someone who lives a mindful sustainable lifestyle, using animal wool wouldn’t have made Shonagh happy, so she sourced an alternative that’s kind to the environment. She uses a plant based bio-nylon that biodegrades between five and ten years. It doesn’t cause plastic pollution and is made using a closed loop system reusing water. It’s also incredibly soft and not at all itchy. Shonagh’s well aware of the massive negative impact the fashion industry has on the environment – its footprint is bigger than aviation and shipping combined and she’s keen not to contribute to that. Shone has been awarded The Vegan Society’s Vegan Trademark which is globally recognised across multiple industries, including textiles and fashion, as well as food, drink and cosmetics. The Trademark’s rigorous standards make it easier for consumers to make informed purchasing decisions.
CHUNKY KNIT
Making the leap from hobby to launching Shone began on Instagram with her first chunky knit cardigan. Shonagh says: “I always desired a career making, so my mind was open to that. When I posted some pieces on social media they got a lot of interest.” She adds: “The business has been running for a couple of years but properly from the beginning of this year. I sought help from the Prince’s Trust Birmingham who support me with finances, business plans and general mentorship.” Shonagh says that social media is both a blessing and a curse: “It’s a tricky place. Some of the best opportunities I’ve had have come from social media, but you can put a lot of hard work and effort into what you post then not get the engagement you’d like and that can be disheartening. You just have to work out how to use it effectively.”
BRUMMIE IN BRISTOL
Having grown up in Birmingham, Shonagh now lives in Bristol which suits her lifestyle and ethos. She explains: “There’s a focus on sustainability and veganism and a lot of opportunity to meet other creative people – artists, photographers, musicians, models. Creativity breeds creativity.” She says Birmingham will always have a special place in her heart. “Growing up in the city was vibrant and multicultural. It’s helped me connect with lots of different people. A big part of my childhood was going to the rag market which probably got me excited about textiles.”
Next year looks as exciting as this one for Shonagh. She would like to do a few more shows, spend more time on her ready to wear collection as well as couture pieces and employ someone.