The head chef at award-winning Maneki Ramen, Pete Dovaston, talks authentic Japanese cuisine, launching its new site in the Jewellery Quarter – and a childhood passion for Angel Delight. Banana flavour, of course!
Tell us about your cooking?
I’d describe my cooking as Tokyo-style ramen with a bit of Brummie soul. I love food that’s thoughtful but not overcomplicated – flavours need to make sense, textures should surprise you, and there’s got to be balance in every bite. I’m big on making sure everything has its place on the plate or in the bowl. I get excited about umami, fermentation, and anything that takes a bit of craft. I’m always learning and always tweaking.
How did you become a chef?
Honestly? It was a bit of a happy accident. I covered a kitchen shift at the pub I worked at, and I just… got hooked. There’s something addictive about the buzz and the pressure. I went on to train in Oxford with Corin Earland, who was at the time chef director at Peach Pubs – he taught me the discipline and joy of great food. Then I had the mad luck of working in Tokyo at Les Enfants Gates with Naoki Matazawa. That place changed how I think about ingredients and presentation. It’s been a mix of luck, graft, and just saying “yes” a lot.
What do you eat at home?
When I get home, I’m not knocking out dashi from scratch – I’ll be honest. Sausage and mash hits the spot, properly buttery mash and good gravy. But I do like to sneak in a gyudon or something quick and comforting if I’ve got leftovers in the fridge.
Who is the best chef in the world and why? And the best in Brum?
Best in the world, I’d still say Naoki Matazawa – he just has this precision and flair without being showy. In Brum, there’s serious talent. Brad Carter is doing wicked things. And Andrew Sheridan – what a machine.
Share a cooking tip
Taste everything. It sounds obvious, but I see so many people skipping it. And don’t be afraid of acid – lemon, vinegar, pickles. That little pop can lift a whole dish. Also, read. Just pick up books, watch stuff, go down rabbit holes. And then go cook.
What was your favourite food as a kid?
My nan used to make this roast chicken with proper crispy skin and bread sauce – it still makes me smile thinking about it. That and Angel Delight, specifically banana flavour.
Food heaven and food hell?
Heaven? Tonkotsu ramen, no question. Fatty, rich, warming – you can’t beat it. Hell? Anything overcooked and bland. Or a dry chicken breast. That’s just cruel.
What’s the most unusual thing you have eaten?
Raw horse. No joke. I’d just come off an 18-hour shift in Japan, totally shattered, and met some mates who’d been out drinking all night. It was about 4am and we ended up in this mad little spot where you pay per head and eat as much as you like. A dish turned up on the table that looked like sashimi, so I tucked in without thinking. My girlfriend at the time casually mentions, “That’s horse sashimi.” Honestly? I have no regrets – I’m always up for trying something new. With a bit of soy sauce, it went down alright!
If you weren’t a chef what will you be?
I’d probably be doing something with my hands. Maybe carpentry? I like making things, tweaking and perfecting. Or maybe I’d just be one of those blokes with too many Japanese knives and no real use for them.