We don’t normally hang out at the Mailbox. We’re usually buying something specific or having a blow dry, but on this occasion we had time to kill, so popped into Medicine.

We still grieve the closure of Tom’s Kitchen on the same site, but we accept it’s time to move on.

Medicine on New Street has become our go-to meeting place with buzzy vibes, loads of natural light and bang in the centre of town. The Mailbox version is a different beast entirely. It’s tucked away, cosy and feels much more restaurant-y. Largely the Medicine guys kept the Tom’s Kitchen interior – big central bar, lively open kitchen and lots of wood. All very lovely.

There’s a definite brunch vibe and we kicked off with a couple of smoothies – a Very Berry (sweet and delicious) and a Green Goddess (more earthy and virtuous tasting but still gorgeous.)

Among the huevos ranchos and eggs benedict, was an unexpectedly brilliant Korean fried chicken sandwich – only unexpected because it felt a little off-piste. Chicken thigh rather than breast was given a crunchy coating, honey and gochugang glaze, punchy sriracha mayonnaise and a crisp Asian slaw served in the softest of brioche buns. It was really great. A hash brown on the side was soggy so fell a bit flat. It was served on a romesco sauce and honestly, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

The Vegan Medicine, which is essentially a vegan version of a full English, hit the spot and boosted the plant intake beautifully. Pumpkin falafel, smashed avocado, kale, mushroom, romesco sauce and a whopping slice of sourdough toast was a joy. We added nicely charred halloumi as an extra. Our only gripe was another soggy hash brown. It’s not the end of the world but if brunch is one of your strengths, you’ve got to be able to serve up a crisp hash brown. Aside from that, the place is independent, reasonably priced and cosy serving cracking food with warm service. It’s a win.

On the way out of the Mailbox, we ran the gauntlet of the Medicine coffee cart but got sucked in big time. We bought our own bodyweight in pastry/cake and took them home to share with the kids. A salted caramel cruffin got the thumbs up, a raspberry pavlova donut was so great it caused a fight, and the carrot and walnut cake was dreamy.

With a version of Medicine Bakery set to open at the Botanical Gardens this month we’re expecting great things.