Some of Europe’s most amazing wines come from Central, Southern and Eastern Europe. David Carne uncorks bottles you really shouldn’t miss out on… 

Think France and Italy have the monopoly on great wine? Think again! The two largest wine-producing countries may boast a long winemaking heritage dating back to 100 BC, but wine was being made in Georgia while the Roman Empire was still a dream – and some of Europe’s most exciting bottles are now coming from regions you’ve probably heard of.

If you care about wine heritage, it might surprise you to learn that while Châteauneuf-du-Pape earned PDO status back in 1936, Hungary’s Tokaj claimed official recognition nearly 200 years earlier, and Cyprus’s Commandaria was protected as far back as the 12th century.

With centuries of experience, Central, Southern and Eastern Europe produce wines that rival the global powerhouses – often at better value. The region offers everything from traditional method sparkling wines to bold, complex reds nearing 16% ABV.

It’s tempting to stick with the familiar when choosing wine – a trusted label, a grape you can pronounce. But by passing over a crisp Cserszegi Fűszeres from Hungary, a bold Saperavi from Georgia, or a bright, aromatic Xynisteri from Cyprus, you could be missing your next favourite bottle.

Many countries in the region don’t produce enough volume to export widely, so if you visit, plan wine tastings or cellar tours – and bring a case home. That said, some hidden gems are starting to appear on UK shelves if you know where to look. 

Sparkling Wines

Germany consumes the largest amount of sparkling wine (Sekt) per capita in the world; however, finding the best ones can be a little tricky. Alternatively, Hungarian Pezsgő or sparkling wines from Moldova or Romania offer good quality at entry-level Champagne prices or less.

Some good choices here are:

• Radacini (Moldova) Blanc de Noirs. Morrisons, £7.

• Allendorf (Germany) N/V Riesling Sekt Brut. www.thewinebarn.co.uk, £19.60.

• Thummerer (Hungary) Blanc Brut Nature 2017. www.hungarianwinehouse.co.uk, £23.59.

• Blanc de Blancs Brut from Carassia (Romania). www.amathusdrinks.com, £26.50. 

White Wines

For white wines, consider a German Riesling, an Austrian Gewurztraminer, or even a Greek Assyrtiko, all of which are quite obtainable. Going further afield, there are some great whites in Romania, Serbia and Slovenia. You could even reach for a bottle of the Hungarian grape, Juhfark. For something different, I recently attended a masterclass on Cypriot wines – the whites were outstanding and well worth exploring.

Some options here are:

• Incanta Fetească Regală (Romania), 2023. Majestic, £9.00.

• Diamantakis Petali (Greece) Assyrtiko. Lokiwine, £15.99.

• Kozlović Malvasia (Croatia). Lokiwine, £17.99.

• KEO Saint Panteleimon (Cyprus) Xynisteri. Drink Supermarket, £8.99. 

Orange Wines

If orange wine is your thing, then I’d point you firmly in the direction of Georgia. They have been making it for 8,000 years and are very good at it. You might also want to consider Slovenia.

Options include:

• Bedoba (Georgia) Orange 2021. www.georgian-wine.co.uk, £17.50.

• Matić (Slovenia) Postopoma Natural Orange Wine 2023. www.secretbottleshop.co.uk, £20.95. 

Rosé Wines

In Hungary, rosé is taken seriously and enjoyed by everyone – regardless of gender. Look out for local varieties Kékfrankos and Kadarka, or Zweigelt; and wines from Villány, Szekszárd, or Eger. You might also want to explore Austria, Greece, or even Cyprus.

Obtainable options are:

• Bolyki (Hungary) Egri Rosé. www.bestofhungary.co.uk, £12.50.

• Sauska (Hungary) Rosé. www.nywines.co.uk, £14.75.

• Lentsch (Austria) Zweigelt Rosé. Waitrose, £10. 

Red Wines

Red wine lovers will find no shortage of exceptional options throughout Central, Southern, and Eastern Europe. There are some great examples from Georgia, Greece, and even Ukraine. Further north, look for Mavrud from Bulgaria, Bordeaux blends from Slovenia, and fantastic Cabernet Francs from Hungary.

Examples include:

• Tbilvino Saperavi (Georgia), 2023. Majestic, £12.50.

• Dúzsi Tamás (Hungary) Cabernet Franc, 2018. www.hungarianwinehouse.co.uk, £14.99.

• Thymiopoulos (Greece) Xinomavro, 2021/22. Majestic, £15.

• Stakhovsky Ace Saperavi (Ukraine). Lokiwine, £23.99. 

Sweet Wine

It has to be Tokaj from Hungary for sweet wines. These are some of the most complex wines in the world, once described by King Louis XIV as “The Wine of Kings, the King of Wines.” The famous style here is Aszú, but also try late harvest (sweet), Szamorodni (dry and sweet), and Essencia (very sweet) wines.

Some examples are:

• Royal Tokaji (Hungary) Blue Label 5 Puttonyos Aszú. Waitrose, £16.50.

• Royal Tokaji (Hungary) Late Harvest 50cl 2018/19. Majestic, £13.50.

• Tokaji (Hungary) Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2014 – Pannon Tokaj. www.hungarianwinehouse.co.uk, £39.99.

Clearly, the above is just scratching the surface, with whole regions and countries not even mentioned. But as you can see, there is a whole treasure trove of discoveries to be made when you venture outside the staples of Western Europe. 

A Final Word on Ukrainian Wine

Ukrainian wine might not have the centuries-old heritage of its neighbours, but it’s quickly making a name for itself. I recently tasted the full range from the Ukrainian Wine Company and was genuinely impressed – the wines are full of personality, expression and heart.

Right now, supporting Ukrainian producers isn’t just about trying something new – it’s a small but meaningful way to stand with a country facing immense challenges.

So why not raise a glass for a good cause? Whether you’re curious to explore something different or just want to show your support, you can order a mixed case or individual bottles at uawines.co.uk.

DAVID’S TOP PICKS FOR SEPTEMBER 

Something Fresh and Fruity

Small and Small Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024. Naked Wines, £15.99.

Zingy, tropical, and citrusy with green apples, pear, melon, subtle peach, and minerality. It is medium bodied with high acidity and some slightly grassy notes. 

Something Sparkling:

Pol Roger Pure Extra Brut NV Champagne. Waitrose, £56.

The slightly drier style allows greater expression from the grapes to shine through with delicate, light, fresh and elegant flavours of citrus and white fruit which develop into breadcrumb and yeasty notes. This is complemented by hints of rose and clove on the nose. Pure by name, pure by nature. 

Something English:

Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs, 2016 (or 2017). £46.99, Loki Wines.

Nyetimber wines are all characterised by complexity and flavours from extended lees ageing and this one is no exception. The 2016 has had six years on lees and has beautiful brioche, biscuit and subtle nutty flavours as a result, which complement the delicate white and citrus fruit palate which has a touch of florality and minerality to it. 

Something big and bold:

Journey’s End, Griffin 2016. Ocado, £27.25.

This Syrah from Stellenboch packs a beautiful cherry nose with some hints of pepper. On the palette the use of oak gives it weight, which is balanced by a silky smooth texture with flavours of blackberries, ripe fruit and liquorice. 

Something classic:

Morrisons The Best Picpoul De Pinet. Morrisons, £10.50.

An easy drinking simple wine which represents great value bringing fresh flavours of citrus zest, lime, grapefruit along with some minerality and slightly floral notes of honeysuckle.