With the celebration of International Malbec Day this month, David Carne looks at the grape the French abandoned, but the British adore!
As we begin to emerge from spring and begin thinking about the prospect of better weather in just a few months’ time, International Malbec Day on 17April offers a timely reminder that Malbec is the natural pairing for steak and other BBQ foods, when we eventually get outside again.
Malbec has small berries, which are dark in colour and have thick skins. The resulting wines tend to have a characteristic purple colour and bright magenta rim. And we Brits love them! The UK is the second biggest importer of Argentinian Malbec in the world.
A BRIEF HISTORY
It is thought that the Malbec grape was first widely adopted in France, where it had become famous as early as Medieval times. There are a number of stories around how Malbec was introduced to France, one of which was that it was introduced by a Hungarian peasant of the same name.
The British love affair with Malbec dates back to the 12th century. Imports of Malbec grew significantly around this time, as a consequence of new trading routes developing when Eleanor of Aquitaine married the English prince who would eventually become King Henry II.
Despite the popularity of the ‘black wines’ of Cahors and Bordeaux in Medieval times, production today is much more limited. The word Malbec is thought to be closely related to the French words ‘mal bouche’ or bad mouth, which reflects the somewhat negative views and lack of love the French have for the grape.
During the 1850s, almost all of the vines of Europe were affected by a pest known as phylloxera, which pretty much wiped Malbec out in South-West France. This, combined with significant frosts of 1956, largely sealed the grape’s fate and it fell out of fashion. Given it is quite a difficult grape to grow, and the French didn’t particularly like it anyway, most vines were replaced with other varieties. It is, however, still one of the red Bordeaux blend varieties, where it is used mostly to add colour.
Thanks to French botanist Michel Pouget transporting Malbec cuttings to South America in the 1850s, today the largest plantations of Malbec can be found in Argentina, where it is usually grown at altitude. Some vineyards are among the highest in the world, located at over 3,300m above sea level. At this altitude the intensity of the sunlight enhances the aromas and flavours of the resulting wines. It also helps create polymeric tannins, which are much softer and rounder, rather than astringent and bitter. The sun helps fully ripen the berries, allowing sugar levels to get very high, and this can result in some very high alcohol wines. Argentina now accounts for around three-quarters of the world’s Malbec plantations.
ABOUT THE WINES
Perhaps one of the reasons the Brits love Malbec is that it is possible to pick-up well-made wines for very good prices. Argentinian styles tend to be easy drinking and fruit dominated with black cherry, raspberry, plum and blackberry flavours depending on the climate in which it has been grown. They often have notes of vanilla, tobacco, cocoa and violet. There are of course still Cahors Malbecs, which tend to be more leathery, tart, and more acidic with black plum, black pepper and spicy notes. Both will benefit from serving just below room temperature, decanting and serving in a large glass to allow them to breathe. Of course, there are examples of rosé style Malbecs and even white and sparkling Malbecs as well.
Despite the obvious pairing with steak, Malbec can also match well with strong (especially blue) cheese, aubergine dishes, meaty fish, smoked foods, and French styles with duck. So, as you dust off the BBQ and prepare for summer, why not look for some International Malbec Day offers in preparation? And however you choose to enjoy your wine, please drink responsibly.
DAVID’S TOP WINE PICKS FOR APRIL
Something sparkling:
Codorniu Vintage Organic Cava Brut – £10, Tesco.
Cava is one of the most underrated sparkling wines and this Codorniu Vintage is a good example of a well-made entry-level Cava. Flavours of ripe white fruits, with good acidity, notes of brioche, dried fruit and nuts. A fine mousse and a long finish.
Something fresh and fruity:
Chosen by Majestic Riesling 2023, Rheinhessen – £9.99, Majestic.
Rieslings have a fairly poor reputation, but this one is fresh, vibrant and has notes of stone fruits and honey which makes it the perfect pairing to Asian dishes.
Something big and bold:
Abbotts & Delaunay ‘Les Fleurs Sauvages’ Malbec 2021/22, Languedoc – £11.99, Majestic.
An old vine French Malbec with concentrated and bold red and black fruit flavours and some liquorice and spice on the finish.
Something classic:
Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 2022 – £15, Tesco.
A full-bodied Malbec with black cherry, plum and subtle raspberry aromas, plus some chocolate on the finish. Spicy notes, but very accessible smooth tannins making it deceptively easy drinking.
Something English:
Chapel Down, A Touch of Sparkle – £15.99, Waitrose.
Tropical, citrus and floral aromas – think pineapple, grapefruit and elderflower. A nice mousse which is persistent. Nice earthy minerality and herbaceous nettle finish.
Something different:
Sainsbury’s Sicilia Doc Grillo, Taste the Difference – £9, Sainsburys.
Fresh, fruit palette with strong citrus flavour, tropical fruit notes and mild floral aromas of jasmine. A great wine to pair with light pasta, chicken salads or sushi dishes.