Bonehead, Lower Severn Street

Bonehead feels like the epitome of the city’s indie scene – fuss free, single-minded, brilliant.

When we say single-minded, we mean it. It’s fried chicken and a handful of incredible sides and that’s it. Simple? Well, sort of except it must take a truckload of vision, precision and skill to make something seemingly simple so memorably marvellous.

This marvellousness, packaged up in a small, dark dining room accented with neon was filled with the sounds of Depeche Mode and Joy Division. We might have been the oldest people in the place and certainly the least pierced, but what of it? It was a joyful experience despite the literal darkness.

The friend and I bit into a Buffalo wing at the same time and both our eyebrows shot skyward. Don’t expect the sort of sweet skinny wings you might be used to as these bore no resemblance. They were deeply delicious and meaty with a pleasing sharpness. We ordered six of the little fellas between two of us – you should go for nine.

Onto the burgers and the friend went with a no-nonsense Bonehead original which came with garlic mayo, lettuce and gherkins served in a soft toasted bun. All the burgers are made using thigh, not breast, meat resulting in peak juiciness encased in the crunchiest coating we’ve ever eaten. I went with one of the specials, the Bavarian – Bonehead fried chicken with sauerkraut, mustard mayo, curry ketchup and smoked cheese. The subtle curry flavour, tart sauerkraut and smokiness of the cheese combined to make the already tasty chicken sing.

Wash your top-notch chicken down with a jar or two from the impressive craft beer menu packed with both boozy and non-alcoholic variations. We slurped a zero per cent alcohol Speigl recommended by our waiter which was bang on the money.

If you’re not a meat eater, check out the cauli wings and/or cauli burger plus all of the sides are veggie – we recommend the waffle fries, all crisp and fluffy dusted with punchy Bonehead seasoning dunked in garlic mayo.

The restaurant is walk-in only – we had no problem getting a table as a duo, but a large group might be a different story. Perhaps check with the restaurant for quieter times if you’re a group, but honestly, if you must wait a while, do it. It is totally worth it!

 

BONEHEAD, Lower Severn Street, Birmingham, B1 1PU. Tel: 0121 439 5757 boneheaduk.com