This is the hardest review we’ve had to write, not because the experience was poor or the food was bad, but because it’s nigh on impossible to convey the brilliance of the place.

It’s a bit of a dichotomy. The décor’s not for everyone. Graffiti is not the friend of the older ladies who lunch set, but neither is Digbeth probably. If you can embrace the leftfield paint job and see beyond the gothic, there’s a foodie experience that’s at least on a par with any restaurant in Birmingham and beyond.

EXPECT GOOSEBUMPS

A welcome note from owner Kray Treadwell read like a love letter to Brum and included references to the music, kindness, warmth of the accent, No 14 bus and the diversity of cultures. A trio of gently spiced beautifully presented nibbles dubbed the Balti Triangle looked like works of art and tasted unbelievable. I don’t know what we expected but it wasn’t this. We won’t list every dish as it’s impossible to do the chef’s skill and inventiveness justice but we’ll say with confidence, expect goosebumps.

GIDDY AND PROUD

If you want to stick a label on it, it’s absolutely in the fine dining camp. It’s Adam’s but more exciting and surprising and we love Adam’s so that’s not a slight. This is fresh and different. What Kray and head chef Sacha can do with a simple hispi cabbage or a humble Jersey Royal is unfathomable. From punchy hoggat to delicately cured cod and an indescribably pleasing chai milk bun, everything we ate made us go quiet. The wine flight made us coo incessantly and the sommelier, Rume was excellent.

As well as the Signature tasting menu which we sampled, there’s a five-course menu available for a steal at £50 – an affordable way to try something incredible. Lots of restaurants in the city are in use it or lose it territory and if this one went, we would be gutted. It made us feel giddy and proud of Birmingham in a way no other restaurant has. Don’t take our word for it. Go.