How Oyetola Akande, the head chef of Empress – the new Nigerian fine dining restaurant in Stirchley – is bringing a taste of regal Africa to the heart of Birmingham
Tell us about your cooking?
My cooking comes from pure passion. It’s intuitive, expressive, and deeply rooted in feeling. While I’m of African heritage and those flavours shape who I am, my palate cuts across continents. I love classic recipes, but I rarely recreate a dish the same way twice I almost always experiment, substitute, or reimagine an element. What excites me is balance: respecting tradition while allowing creativity to breathe. What’s most important to me is that food feels honest, comforting and memorable – food that speaks softly but stays with you.
How did you become a chef?
I’m self-taught, and I say that proudly. My journey into cooking wasn’t through formal culinary school, but through curiosity, repetition and an unwavering love for food. I’ve learnt enormously from other chefs, cookbooks, travel and television, constantly observing, tasting and refining. Family played a huge role; food was always central to our lives. Meals weren’t just eaten, they were shared, discussed and celebrated. That sense of food as connection has stayed with me.
What do you eat at home?
To be honest, whatever is available and comforting. I like throwing leftovers together and fleshing it up with some salad, fried eggs or steamed vegetables. No fuss meals that are simple, nourishing and deeply satisfying.
Who’s the best chef in the world, and the best in Brum?
Best in the world for me is Massimo Bottura. What I admire most is his grace. He isn’t loud or performative, yet his influence is undeniable. He’s known for transforming traditional Italian cuisine with creativity, humility, and purpose, while also using food as a force for social good. That quiet excellence resonates deeply with me. Here in Birmingham, we are incredibly rich in culinary talent, but Aktar Islam of Opheem stands out. His work is thoughtful, refined, and culturally expressive. He’s helped put Birmingham firmly on the global food map while staying rooted in authenticity. That balance is something I truly respect.
Is the customer always right?
The customer is always important, always to be respected, but not always right. Great dining experiences happen when there’s trust between the guest and the chef, and when both sides value the craft.
Share a cooking tip
Taste as you go and trust your palate. Recipes are guides, not rules. Once you understand flavour, you gain the freedom to cook with confidence.
What was your favourite food as a kid?
Rice. I loved rice growing up. I enjoyed it paired with fish or poultry in tomato pepper stews.
Food heaven and food hell?
Food heaven is well-seasoned, thoughtfully cooked food that feels balanced and intentional. Food hell is food cooked without care, no seasoning, no soul.
What’s the most unusual thing you’ve eaten?
I’ve eaten a few unconventional things, but what matters more than how unusual something is, is how well it’s prepared. Almost anything can be enjoyable when cooked with respect.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
I’d be running Oyetty Foundation full time. It’s a charity registered in Nigeria that supports parents and carers of children with special educational needs. It’s very close to my heart, and service has always been as important to me as creativity.
What do you recommend from this evening’s menu?
The Empress Coconut Rice. It’s rich, fragrant, and deeply satisfying. The coconut is subtle, not overpowering. It’s cooked with smoked goat meat, smoked turkey, succulent prawns and mixed vegetables. If you’re visiting us for the first time, I’ll always recommend our Jollof rice.