In the last issue we said we hoped it would be the last time we reviewed an At Home box. We tempted fate and came off worse, so here we are again, Groundhog Day, although to be honest, we’d happily do this one again and again.

We’d happily do this one again and again. Sorry – we blame lockdown fatigue.

With restaurants in Leamington Spa and Rugby, Libertine is the brainchild of Charles Harris, the man behind some of the region’s best gastropubs like the Stag at Offchurch and Moorings at Myton among others. We’ve never eaten a burger in any of them, but the Libertine website had us salivating, so we went all in.

We ordered #004 for four people which is signature beef patty made with a combo of Aubrey Allen flank, chuck and brisket, sesame seed brioche buns, crispy bacon, cheese, ketchup, mustard and pickles. It all came cool packed with detailed instructions and very cute branded squeezy bottles American diner style for the ketchup and mustard.

We ordered sides of Tater Tots – little new potatoes roasted until golden and topped with an incredible cheesy sauce and bacon bits. We also tried a punchy chilli version which came with a top-notch chimichurri. While they were seriously delicious, the burger was the main event.

Little details like lightly toasting the bun, the precise cooking instructions (four minutes either side) which left the patty pink in the middle, the way you put the lid of the bun on top of the patty, cheese and bacon in the pan, so it becomes part of the burger rather than perching on top makes all the difference. There was a lot of slurping and ‘ooh that’s really good’ on repeat from all corners of the table. While it’s not dignified or probably that good for you snaffled too often, crumbs it’s a bloomin’ delight.

We over ordered as is our wont and probably one portion of sides would have been enough for four, but that’s it, the only criticism we have. We spent less than we would have at Five Guys and it was in another league, no galaxy, neigh universe.

(Oh, and if there’s an At Home review in the next issue we’ll run naked down Digbeth High Street…)