Pinotage Day falls on 11 October. Autumn is when many of us move from lighter summer wines to something more substantial, which opens up Pinotage as an option. That’s not to say Pinotage can’t work in summer – after all, the South African barbecue (braai) is extremely popular, and Pinotage is a great companion to barbecued foods. It also pairs beautifully with lamb, game, rich stews, and even strong cheeses.

The grape itself is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault (chosen to combine elegance with hardiness); however, its flavour profile is distinct from both parents. Some would say it shares more flavour and structural characteristics with grapes like Shiraz, Merlot or Carménère. The berries are thick-skinned, and the vines thrive in warm, dry climates thanks to their drought resistance. When fully ripe, it can reach high sugar levels (so expect typically high levels of alcohol – 15% is not uncommon), and it also has high tannin levels due to those thick skins. Developed in the 1920s by Abraham Perold, Pinotage rose quickly in popularity after the first wines appeared in the 1940s.

TRADEMARK VARIETY

Along with Chenin Blanc, Pinotage has become one of South Africa’s trademark wine varieties. And for good reason. Pinotage comes in many styles, from light, fruit-forward reds, through jammy styles, to complex full-bodied wines with dark fruit, smoke, chocolate and robust tannins. As a result, Pinotage doesn’t have one fixed identity, but rather many faces, so there’s often a style to suit everyone. Pinotage’s relative obscurity can in many ways be attributed to its lack of presence outside of South Africa. Look out for examples from Stellenbosch and Paarl though, these tend to be the best examples.

One of the advantages of South African wines is that they do not generally attract the same high prices as typical French or Italian wines, so it is possible to pick up bottles of decent Pinotage for just over £10. Tesco’s Bellingham Pinotage is £11.50, and even the more exclusive Beaumont Jackal’s River can be picked up for £21 at The Wine Box.

The really good examples can be age-worthy and may be able to last 15 or more years with proper storage developing tertiary flavours (like leather or tobacco) and complexity over time. Expect full-bodied, high alcohol wines characterised by dark fruit, spice, leather, chocolate, coffee and silky tannins. Pinotage wines often benefit from decanting, as this helps soften the tannins and bring out the fruit. Pinotage is also used in Cape Blends, where it is blended with other Bordeaux varieties to create some fantastic wines. And there is good news for rosé fans as well, Pinotage makes a nice rosé.

GAINING QUALITY

However, Pinotage can often divide opinion. In the 80s and 90s, some producers over-extracted colour but thinned flavour, creating cheap, diluted wines that put people off. Since then, winemakers have refined vineyard and cellar techniques, massively improving quality. The variation in styles can sometimes also mean that people try one bottle, dislike it, and dismiss the grape completely.

It can also be difficult to grow and can develop high levels of volatile acidity which result in a sort of a nail-varnish or acetone-like aroma which makes it smell like paint, which is not a positive in tasting notes! This is usually the result of poor winemaking rather than the grape itself. To make a good Pinotage takes time and effort. Finally, it is rare to find Pinotage outside of South Africa, so many people have just never encountered it before.

As we celebrate Pinotage Day, whether you’ve never tried Pinotage or are a seasoned expert, I hope you find a Pinotage you like to mark the occasion. You don’t need to spend a fortune – just go a little above the cheapest bottle. Whichever one you pick, please drink responsibly and let me know if you find any hidden gems!

DAVID’S RECOMMENDATIONS FOR OCTOBER

Something Fresh and Fruity

Santodeno Grillo Sicilia DOC Vino Wine – Asda, £6.97.

Aromas of citrus, pineapple, apricot and orange blossom with refreshing acidity. Perfect with seafood.

Something Sparkling

Martial Richard Crémant de Limoux – Naked Wines, £18.99.

I tasted this alongside a well-known Champagne and the difference was virtually imperceptible. Citrus, green fruit and peach on the palate with a creamy, biscuity feel. Floral and mineral notes.

Something English

Brabourne Classic Cuvee, 2019 ­– www.brabournewine.com, £35.

A hidden gem from a small Kent vineyard. Definitely a champagne-beater. Citrus, fleshy fruit, honeyed notes, almond and brioche. Elegant with a strong finish.

Something Big and Bold

i-Latina La Armonia, Vineyard Petit Verdot, 2021 ­– Naked Wines, £23.99.

A big wine! Cherry, blackberry, plum, oak spice and vanilla, full-bodied but balanced and with a luxurious finish.

Something Classic

Paolo Leo Primitivo di Manduria – Waitrose, £14.

Full-bodied but elegant. Dark fruits and cherry with warm spice and savoury notes.

Something Different

Domaine Jones Vieilles Vignes Fitou – Loki Wines, £17.99.

Complex and concentrated with flavours of hedgerow. Black fruits, herby-leathery finish and succulent mouthfeel.