Resident wine expert David Carne on what to serve for every occasion, long before the turkey hits the oven

The festive season is already in full swing with work parties, drinks with friends, family get-togethers and a seemingly endless succession of invitations. Whether you’re hosting or turning up with a bottle, wine is often part of the occasion. A little alcohol can also make social occasions more enjoyable. But with so many different gatherings and groups of people, how do you choose a wine that will keep everyone happy?

Rather than focusing solely on Christmas dinner, this month I’m looking at the occasions around it, and the wines that might suit each.

The Christmas drinks party
For occasions where you aren’t eating a substantial meal, avoid heavy, food-friendly wines and focus on something celebratory. Sparkling is the obvious choice, but not every occasion requires Champagne. Prosecco is an easy-drinking, affordable option, while Crémant de Loire or Bourgogne, English sparkling or good-quality Cava offer something more sophisticated. But don’t dismiss a still wine such as a dry Riesling.

The family gathering
This one can be tricky. Different generations and tastes gathered together means we’re looking for diplomatic wines that won’t offend anyone. Any of the sparkling wines above are solid choices, alongside a neutral white such as Pinot Grigio, Chablis/Petit Chablis (or another unoaked Chardonnay), or something lighter such as Vinho Verde or Albariño. For reds, I’d stay with something lighter like Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Côtes du Rhône or Rioja Crianza. Or, if you want to stay traditional, add a bottle of dry Amontillado Sherry.

Christmas Eve
What better time to open something special?! While Christmas dinner is the star on the 25th, why not make the wine the star on Christmas Eve? Treat yourself to White Burgundy (think Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and ideally Premier Cru). For red, consider mature Barolo, Côte-Rôtie or Rioja Gran Reserva. Alternatively, there is nothing nicer, in my opinion, than mature blue cheese and/or a mince pie with a luxurious sweet Tokaj Aszú.

Christmas morning
With a long day ahead and potentially a dinner to cook, my suggestion is to keep it light. Moscato d’Asti maintains a feel of celebration but is lower in alcohol. An off-dry Riesling or Vinho Verde can work for similar reasons. Pre-lunch, you can then upgrade to Champagne, a quality Cava or aged English sparkling, with lively acidity.

After lunch
This is an opportunity to get adventurous. Tawny Port, Madeira, Cream Sherry, Sauternes or Tokaji Aszú will work with sweet desserts or cheese. A more unconventional choice might be a good Vermouth. If you are settling down for a cosy afternoon after a heavy meal, I’d opt for something with more body, such as an oaky Chardonnay or any Rioja Gran Reserva left over from the previous night.

Boxing Day
A large dinner, probably too many chocolates and some nice wines on Christmas Day may leave you wanting something lighter. Pick something with slightly lower alcohol and good acidity that will work with those Christmas leftovers. Riesling may well work here, but dry or sparkling rosé are also solid choices. And don’t overlook a quality Lambrusco as your sparkling option. Red-wise, Pinot Noir, Gamay or Côtes du Rhône are good pairing wines with most foods.

Hopefully the wines help you survive and thrive during the festive season. Whatever you are drinking, please drink responsibly.

DAVID’S RECOMMENDATIONS FOR NOVEMBER

Something Sparkling:
Lanson Le Vintage 2014 Champagne – £43.99, Loki
An exceptional Champagne with significant ageing. It maintains lemon zest-like freshness alongside baked apple, toasted brioche, nuts and minerality.

Something Fresh and Fruity:
Château de Sancerre Sancerre – £26.95, Vinvm.co.uk
A great example of a well-made Sancerre, with citrus, blossom, minerality and an extended aromatic finish.

Something Big and Bold:
Larry Cherubino Pedestal Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 – £17.05, Vinvm.co.uk
Blackcurrant and spice on the nose and palate, with bay leaf, cedar and a chocolatey, velvety finish.

Something Classic:
Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir – £39.99, Loki
A superb New Zealand Pinot Noir, blending red and dark fruit with a savoury, smoky character and a light, elegant, extended finish.

Something English:
Domaine Evermond Classic Cuvée Edition 1 – £57, Majestic
One of my favourite English sparklings. Apple, pear and stone fruit, with a creamy, brioche and luxurious mouthfeel.

Something Different:
Pinot Blanc U Chlupa 2023, Thaya – £23.99, Winelibrary.co.uk
A Czech wine that is fragrant and fruity, with orchard fruit notes. On the palate expect honey, bread, structure, acidity and mineral hints.