After a soft launch that had all the drama of Gillian McKeith’s fake ‘fainting’ culminated in no power and massive generators out on the street, we popped along to the Rolling Mill to see what all the fuss was about.

From the outside it’s understated, but inside the cavernous interior packs a punch. Formally the Tramshed, the Rolling Mill is two 19th century industrial barns joined together, totalling nearly 8,000 sq ft and is all exposed beams and original brickwork, big rustic wooden tables and cosy curved booths. There’s a cool sociable hawker centre vibe with a pizza oven and open kitchen.

We found loads on the menu that winked at us and after much agonising plumped for pork belly bites from the small plate menu to start as well as halloumi with gremolata. The pork belly was everything we wanted. It was crisp and flavoursome with hot sriracha mayo served in a skillet with seared spring onions and peppers. The halloumi was perfect, gremolata was punchy and salad leaves pimped up with a zingy citrus dressing.

Chicken pie is my speciality (an adapted Delia turkey en croute recipe if you’re interested) so I felt compelled to give TRM version a whirl. Served in an individual pie dish it remained hotter than the sun for some time, but once cool enough to tuck into it was great. Crispy puff pastry, creamy sauce with mushrooms, plenty of chicken and handful of herbs, it was very good. The star of the plate however was a pile of crunchy triple cooked chips. The pie was served with a cute jug of gravy. If we’re being hyper critical, the gravy could have been a bit thicker for our taste.

A burger for the other half was succulent, smothered in cheese with a delicious punchy sauce served with a crunchy slaw, a monster pickle which came my way and a hefty portion of herby fries. While the fries were fine, they weren’t a patch on the triple cooked chips. We’d recommend swapping. Pud was a shared hazelnut and dark chocolate tart with rum and raisin ice cream. Greg Wallace would have had a field day with this beauty. Lip-smackingly good and definitely enough for two.

Sunday lunch also looks cracking as does breakfast. You can walk-in or book, just go. You’ll thank us.