Tell us about your cooking?

My style is rooted in refined English fine dining. I’m passionate about crafting dishes that are both elegant and full of bold, unexpected flavour. What drives me is transforming familiar ingredients into something truly memorable. 

How did you become a chef?

I was born into a humble farming family, where early mornings meant feeding cows and long days were spent tending fields. While my mum worked tirelessly outside, I found my joy in the kitchen, helping her cook dinner after her hard day. I was just a child, but those moments – stirring pots, learning to boil rice, watching her hands move with love and precision – sparked something deep in me. As I grew older, I picked up every little detail my parents shared about food. Slowly, I began cooking basic curries on my own. The first time my wife tasted my food, she was amazed. Her encouragement planted a new dream in me – to become a chef.

I started my culinary journey in Chandigarh, Punjab, where I trained with dedication. After moving to the UK, I got an incredible opportunity to work for Gordon Ramsay as a Senior Chef de Partie. There, I discovered the art of British cuisine and sharpened my skills in one of the world’s most demanding kitchens. I later joined Three Church Road as a sous chef and then Jaguar Land Rover group as a hospitality chef before returning home here to St George’s Place as head chef.

What do you eat at home?

Simple foods and a lot of vegetarian options. 

Who is the best chef in the world and why? And the best in Brum?

I am inspired by chef Vikas Khanna’s journey – his life is a powerful example of turning struggles into strength. Born in Amritsar with a clubfoot, he faced many challenges, but with the support of his family and a deep passion for cooking he rose to become a Michelin-starred chef in the USA and gained international recognition. He has cooked for world leaders, authored several books and continues to shine globally. Despite his success, he remains humble and kind. He is also a beloved judge on Indian television’s MasterChef India, and his compassion is seen in efforts like his Feed India initiative. In my opinion, the best chef in Birmingham would be Glynn Purnell. 

Share a cooking tip

To get the perfect Yorkshire puddings always be sure to get that oil smoking hot. 

What was your favourite food as a kid?

Some flavours stay with you forever and for me it’s my grandmother’s home-made rice pudding. The fragrant smell and sweet taste was something I found hard to resist. 

Food heaven and food hell?

My food heaven would be a buttery lobster ravioli in a saffron cream sauce. My food hell would be overcooked liver! 

What’s the most unusual thing you have eaten?

Bheja Fry – that’s goat or lamb brain, delicately cooked with spices, onions and herbs. 

If you weren’t a chef what will you be?

A farmer – that would follow with family tradition.

Looking at our camera roll after lunch we found we’d snapped as many photos of the interior of the place as the food. Tastefully decked out with pieces sympathetic to the building’s original period, the designers have achieved a comfortable and highly Instagrammable grown-up grandeur. The bar area is fantastic as, we imagine, the terrace would be on a hot day should we ever be lucky enough to enjoy one.

There were two menu options for lunch; the Market Menu which was a reasonable two courses for £17.95 and three for £21.95 and All Day Dining which had a bit more choice and on balance was slightly more expensive. I went All Day while the friend went for Market.

Smoked duck breast with a leg bon bon, celeriac puree and duck fat confit radish was a great start. The smoked duck breast was so tender it was firmly in melt in the mouth territory while the crisp, rich bon bon with shredded leg was seriously good. The silky celeriac puree was great while the confit radish didn’t really add much other than one of our five a day. Not to be sniffed at. The friend’s spiced fishcakes, while they were perfectly tasty, weren’t really spicy, so not really a grumble about the food as much as trade description. The avocado mayo worked really well.

A piece of Skrei cod tasted great and had a good thwack of mustard across the top. We loved it, but if you’re not a fan of the hot stuff, maybe ask the kitchen to tone it down. The chorizo choucroute (bit like a cassoulet) that the fish was nestled on was absolutely delicious; salty, almost creamy gorgeousness with crisp chorizo. We didn’t really understand the dumpling though – the inside was zingy and fresh with lemon and crème fraiche, but the outer was a bit hard. It seemed like a bit of an unnecessary addition to a dish that felt complete without it.

Mustard seed confit pork belly with mash and red cabbage was devoured enthusiastically. The pork belly was that perfect blend of crisp skin and soft, almost buttery meat with a jug of rich jus to add to the unctuousness. Mash and red cabbage played second fiddle, but my gosh they played it well.

Dessert, as always was utterly unnecessary, but when in Rome. We shared a chocolate delice, rich with cream and cherries as well as dark chocolately good stuff. Dreamy.

We sent almost entirely clean plates back to the kitchen which we very rarely do. If you haven’t been already, you really should go.

Tell us about your cooking

I like to take a classic dish and add my own spin. I feel it’s important to work in a seasonal, sustainable style and let the quality of the fresh food shine through. What excites me the most is creating a great plate of food that the customer will enjoy and talk to other people about.

How did you become a chef?

I started at the age of 15 in a local kitchen and fell in love with the energy and work ethics of a professional kitchen. I then worked in a number of rosette restaurants around the Cotswolds, including the Lygon Arms. This is where I developed my love of fresh seasonal food – working closely with the head gardener and working to use products at their absolute peak. I spent six months working in a number of hotels and restaurants in Spain which also helped.

What do you eat when at home?

I like to eat a lot of simple fish dishes, especially those with little washing up after! I really enjoy eating food with my family and friends.

Who’s the best chef in the world and why? And who’s the best in Brum?

My favourite chef is Claude Bos [at Bebendum, South Kensington, London]. I really like his simple menu style, but with the exceptional ingredients he uses. In Birmingham, I really enjoy the work of Brad Carter. The service and food at his restaurant is exceptional.

Is the customer always right?

To a point. Food is a very personal thing to everyone. But sometimes the customer should trust the chef with the combination of flavours on the plate and not try to change them.

Share a cooking tip

Always dry the skin of a fish before pan-frying it. It will help keep the skin crispy.

What was your favourite food as a kid?

When I was younger I really enjoyed strong flavours. One of my favourite dishes used to be pan-fried liver with bubble and squeak. Delicious!

Food heaven and hell?

My favourite would be mussels, prawns and clams with lots of fresh chili, garlic and herbs. Hell would be anything with rhubarb.

What’s the most unusual thing you’ve eaten?

Snake. It’s not the greatest thing I’ve ever eaten – it has quite a muddy flavour. I don’t think I would serve it on my menu.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?

I think I would be an electrician or possibly in the armed forces.

What do you recommend from this evening’s menu?

We have a lovely megrim sole dish with a leek mousse and plankton macaroon. The colours and flavour of the dish are amazing.

TRY MAKING JAMES’S SMOKED RABBIT AND CHICKEN TERRINE

INGREDIENTS

• 1 whole rabbit
• 4 chicken legs
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 blub of garlic
• 500ml vegetable oil
• 100g chopped parsley
• 2 shallots, finely diced
• 50g cornichons

METHOD

Cover the whole rabbit and chicken legs in oil in a deep tray. Add the bay leaves and garlic and cover with parchment and foil. Place in the oven at 80C for 8 hours.

Once cooked allow to cool in the oil until cool enough to handle. Remove the meat from the bones and shred the meat. Add the shallots, parsley and cornichons. Season the mix with salt and pepper, and place in a lined terrine mould adding a little of the cooking oil to help it set.

Chill overnight, slicing before serving. Serve with parsnip crisps, pickled walnuts and toasted rye bread.