Far from the American diner blandness is new kid on the block, Qavali which has popped up in its place and whose owners have transformed the restaurant into a dramatic, dark Indo-Persian restaurant with bags of charm.

They’ve kept the curved banquette seating and upholstered them in racing green as well as adding lots of striking art and greenery. Even the ladies loo has had the Qavali treatment with ornate basins and gorgeous taps. While the décor’s worth a look, the food and drink are the main draw.

We visited at lunchtime so stayed off the booze, but there are plenty of non-alcoholic options. We slurped a punchy little – and we mean thimble-sized – mocktail called Akbar and Alphonso. The combo of mango and ginger was a thing of beauty. If we’re being picky we’d increase the size slightly.

The menu is varied – yes, you’ll find your butter chicken and tikka faves but also more inventive dishes. First up the usual drill with papadums served with three chutneys – one heady with coriander, one spicy number and a sticky sweet version.

There’s a tempting Qavali Grand Platter for £94 which would be a great way to sample lots of dishes, but we refrained this time. Instead, we ate a starter of falafel which sounds simple, but not all falafels are equal apparently. We’ve eaten some dry, tasteless versions in the past, but these spheres were packed with flavour, herbs and a bit of heat served drizzled with yogurt with some truly great houmous on the side. We didn’t expect to be wowed by falafel but there you go.

Peshwari Chapli kebab, although nice, didn’t get us excited. The lamb tasted lamby and a zingy salad on the side was fresh and lively. Butter chicken on the other hand did get us excited. The sauce was an absolute triumph that we scooped up hungrily with a warm naan and then smothered on a Multani paneer tikka dish which was seriously good in its own right, but with the added sauce, perfection.

In truth, the place feels more suited to dinner than lunch – having said that the service was speedy so you could easily have a very good lunch in under an hour. It just feels like an after dark place in the best of ways – glamorous décor, great lighting and a well-stocked bar.

We’ll be back, there’s a platter with our name on it.

Tell us about your cooking

My cooking style is simple. I work with different key ingredients to keep the dish simple and tasty. Presentation is crucial with simplicity.

How did you become a chef?

Since childhood I was very fond of street food and home cooking. I used to help my mom in the kitchen, and I was trained in the Radisson hotel. My mom played an important role as she taught me home style cooking and introduced me to the world of our culture’s cuisines.

Who’s the best chef in the world and why? And who’s the best in Brum?

My mom is the best chef in the world. She was my first teacher who taught me that cooking is an art and it can only be done from the heart and with love. People can have techniques but not the love that comes from within. In Birmingham all our chefs are the best because all are working with passion.

Share a cooking tip

Always taste the dish in between as the taste changes during cooking time, so check that the right flavours are coming through.

What was your favourite food as a kid?

Samosa chaat – a traditional Indian dish made from boiled potatoes, lentils, spices and samosas.

Food heaven and food hell?

Food heaven is eating Aloo Paratha in the mountains of Indo-Persia and hell was when I ate chilli samosa in 50c temperature.

What’s the most unusual thing you’ve eaten?

Frog.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?

A cop.

TRY DEEPARK’S RECIPE FOR DELICIOUS PERSIAN KOOBIDEH KEBABS 

Ingredients

• • 1kg lamb mince
• • 2 medium white onions
• • 1tsp saffron
• • 6 cloves of garlic, pasted
• • 100gm butter, melted
• • ½tsp black pepper
• • ½tsp rose water
• • ½tsp sumac
• • Salt to taste

Method

Mix all the dry ingredients with lamb mince. Puree the onions and then strain discarding any water. Mix with the garlic paste and rose water then add to the mince, kneading until all the ingredients are combined.

Divide the mince into five portions, shape onto skewers and cook over charcoal grill or barbecue while basting with the melted butter. Cook until meat is tender then enjoy with lavash bread or rice.