Isaac’s, Barwick Street

Since its opening we’ve considered Isaacs’s to be a hotel restaurant and it hasn’t been on our radar – our bad, as the kids might say.

While there’s access from The Grand, there’s a separate entrance on Barwick Street and under the expert guidance of executive chef, Adam Bateman, Isasc’s stacks up as a restaurant in its own right.

The restaurant’s mantra, ‘inspired by New York, 100 per cent Brum’ is reflected in a menu packed with burgers, wings, hot dogs, mac and cheese and the like. However, a new menu that launched just before our visit revealed a lighter side too. We dabbled with both.

First up, a bowl of olives with zingy pickled fennel and a Cosmopolitan – a really nice start. Next, chicken wings with a blue cheese dip. For context, since Bonehead flung open its doors across town and started bossing wings, nothing compares. While the Isaac’s version was tasty and perfectly succulent with a nice hit of spice, they were playing second fiddle. A wingless wing i.e. cauliflower is available too.

Smashed avocado and salmon tostada was fresh and light benefitting from zesty lime juice, chilli and popping jewels of pomegranate, while a 10oz ribeye was perfectly pink on the inside, charred on the outside and seriously tasty. Truffle fries provided a moreish earthy crunch.

Then came a dish of fried chicken served atop a giant potato waffle with a fried duck egg and a delicious BBQ sauce. The fried chicken was top drawer with a crunchy flavour-packed coating encasing soft, moist meat ­– it played second fiddle to no one. The oozing duck egg added another dimension while the waffle which was a bit tough felt surplus to requirements. Aside from that, it was great dish.

If, like us, Isaac’s hasn’t been on your radar, it’s well worth a trip and might just become one of your new faves.

ISAAC’S, 28 Barwick Street, Birmingham, B3 2NT. Tel: 0121 827 9670,