So, what’s everyone’s favourite Bavarian pleasure palace like by day? A bit slow? Well, yes. Grabbing a quick lunch this is not, but if you can wangle longer than an hour, it’s a happy way to break up the day.
The decor is stunning and like nothing else in Brum. Big, bold, stylish it’s like a ski chalet on steroids with pale wood, open fires, glamorous lighting and a show-stopping, well-stocked central bar. The place suits a crowd – there are lots of big tables and banquettes as well as cosy corners for pairs like us. The large menu skips around a bit from Bavaria to the Middle East via Puglia to North West England. As you’d expect there’s alpine-inspired fodder like fondue as well as schnitzel, bratwurst and pickles, but also kebabs, pasta, hummus, burrata and a Sunday lunch menu featuring Cheshire chicken and Lancashire beef.
We hunkered down with a gin cocktail and a beer flight along with a plate of moreish sticky honey and mustard glazed bratz with pickled chilli along with three haus breads. The trio included a sourdough, a pistachio and cranberry version and an utterly delicious Pilsner, stilton and caramelised onion bread that we could have grazed on all day.
The mains were a bit hit and miss. A Black Forest chicken burger felt like it had been hanging around for a while. The bun was good, but inside the buttermilk chicken was a bit dry and a slice of gouda, lettuce leaves and celeriac slaw had seen better days. By contrast a lamb Kofta was excellent – vibrant and punchy with bags of herbs, zingy freshness with nicely cooked spiced lamb served on a flatbread. It seemed a bit random given the ski chalet vibe but it was absolutely knockout. Crunchy fries were great, too.
The desserts look fantastic particularly a baked Alaska. We’ll save it for next time. Don’t expect fine dining but do expect an experience, an excellent drinks menu and mostly hearty tasty food. (We were gifted a voucher that part paid for our lunch.)