A delightful corner of Italian romance comes to Chamberlain Square this month as the Big Mamma Group opens La Bellezza. We caught up with its head chef, Mimmo Ruggiero
Tell us about your cooking
Being born and raised in Naples, I am deeply connected to my Southern Italian heritage, so my cooking is filled with Mediterranean traditions, but with a twist and a touch of innovation. I love bold and contrasting flavours, using an array of spices and rich sauces like ragù and béchamel.
Naturally I love working with our fantastic suppliers at Big Mamma – having such excellent Italian produce is always such a privilege, while pairing them with seasonal British ingredients to elevate a simple Italian dish is very interesting. These classic recipes with fun additions are something we have tried to create at La Bellezza – such as our homemade pici served in a rich, but spiced lamb and San Marzano ragu.
How did you become a chef?
My culinary journey began at the age of eight, thanks to my grandmother. She invited me into the kitchen to help prepare family meals, immersing me in every aspect of the process and igniting my curiosity about cooking. By the time I was 13 my passion for the kitchen was blossoming, leading me to apply to a culinary school. I moved to Tuscany, where I learned many of the techniques I still use today. My greatest influences have undoubtedly been my grandmother and a few pioneering chefs who made their mark on television, such as Antonino Cannavacciuolo. During my summer jobs in Naples, I had the privilege of learning from true masters who taught me the art of pizza dough making. These mentors not only imparted their culinary skills but also instilled in me the dedication, commitment, and patience required in the kitchen – qualities that are essential, especially when you consider that pizza dough can take up to 36 hours to rise!
What do you eat at home?
Pasta, pasta, pasta! In all its shapes! There’s nothing quite like a rich ‘pasta al forno’ to get cosy in the winter. One of my absolute favourites is Pasta alla Genovese. This dish holds a special place in my heart, but it requires a significant amount of time to prepare, so often it is best made on a relaxed Sunday as the perfect lunch to enjoy with friends and family.
Who’s the best chef in the world and why? And who’s the best in Brum?
Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana is a chef I admire hugely. He is always evolving and remains at the forefront of the culinary world as a true pioneer, not just within Italian cuisine but globally. I also have great respect for Luke Tipping. While I haven’t yet had the chance to dine at Simpsons, I deeply admire his work and would love to experience his cooking.
Share a cooking tip
I have never shared this before, it’s a treasured family secret! But to make her version of Genovese, my grandmother added a pinch of baking soda to make the onions creamier. This little trick not only enhances the texture but also elevates the overall flavour.
What was your favourite food as a kid?
Pizza has always been my favourite! I could never say no to a classic Margherita topped with mozzarella di bufala and plenty of fresh basil.
Food heaven and food hell?
Heaven is all about pizza and pasta. Hell is when Italian recipes are misinterpreted or distorted. I love when people embrace Italian cooking, but you really do need to stick to traditions. Take carbonara, for example, it’s all about those simple, wonderful ingredients: guanciale, eggs, Pecorino Romano, and black pepper. When people toss in chicken and heavy cream, it might make for a creamy dish but it totally misses that authentic vibe.
What’s the most unusual thing you’ve eaten?
Probably crickets in Mexico!
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
A career that involves working closely with people. Being surrounded by others is essential to my ideal job. I thrive in environments where I can connect, collaborate, and create memorable experiences, much like I do in the kitchen.